
Patek Philippe
World Time 5230 Rose Gold
5230R-001
A rose-gold world traveller dressed in guilloché warmth
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Overview
The Patek Philippe 5230R-001 is a 38.5 mm rose-gold expression of the manufacture's long-standing World Time complication, introduced in 2016 and continuing in production. Its most immediately striking feature is a dial centre hand-guilloché in a basketweave motif — a finishing technique that places it firmly within Patek Philippe's tradition of marrying horological craft with decorative artistry. The reference belongs to the Complications collection and is powered by the ultra-thin automatic Calibre 240 HU.
History
Patek Philippe's World Time lineage traces back to the 1930s, when the manufacture collaborated with Louis Cottier, the Geneva watchmaker who devised the city-ring mechanism that allows all 24 time zones to be read simultaneously from a single crown push. The 5230 series carried that heritage into the modern era, refining the case architecture and integrating the complication into the manufacture's own movement family. The 5230R-001 extended the line into 18k rose gold, pairing the warm metal with a brown guilloché dial that gives the reference a distinctly intimate, dressy character compared to its white- and yellow-gold siblings.
Notable points
- Calibre 240 HU is an ultra-thin, 22k gold mini-rotor automatic movement — a technical achievement that keeps the 38.5 mm case elegantly slim.
- The dial centre is hand-guilloché in a basketweave ("clous de Paris"-adjacent) pattern, a labour-intensive decorative process executed by specialist craftspeople.
- A single push of the crown advances the city ring and both time displays by one hour, allowing effortless time-zone correction without disturbing the running seconds.
- At 38.5 mm, the case sits at a restrained diameter that honours the World Time's classical dress-watch proportions while remaining legible.
- The 24-city ring encircling the dial represents all standard time zones, with day and night indicated by a graduated enamel or printed arc — a functional detail rooted in Cottier's original 1930s design logic.
Specifications
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