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Patek Philippe Nautilus 5990 Travel Time Chronograph Rose Gold — 5990/1R-001

Patek Philippe

Nautilus 5990 Travel Time Chronograph Rose Gold

5990/1R-001

Rose gold Nautilus uniting a flyback chronograph with dual-timezone travel time.

Estimated market value
$115,000
Confidence: Moderate

An estimate from current market data — not an offer. Your actual value depends on condition, completeness, and authentication.

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Overview

The Patek Philippe Nautilus 5990/1R-001 brings together two of the manufacture's most demanding complications — a flyback chronograph and a travel-time display — within the iconic 40.5 mm rose gold Nautilus case. Its brown gradient dial, finished with the line's signature horizontal embossing, lends a warm, distinctly contemporary character to a technically ambitious watch. Calibre CH 28-520 C FUS, developed entirely in-house, powers both the chronograph and the instantaneous local-time function.

History

The Nautilus 5990 family was conceived as a sporting complication watch, extending the original Gerald Genta-designed Nautilus silhouette into the realm of serious horology. The 5990/1R-001 variant in 18k rose gold was introduced in the early 2020s, adding a warm-metal option to the reference alongside stainless steel and white gold executions. As a current-production reference, it represents Patek Philippe's continued investment in the Nautilus as a platform for high-complication movements rather than purely aesthetic updates. Collectors regard the travel-time chronograph combination as one of the most practically useful pairings in the Nautilus catalogue.

Notable points

  • Case crafted in 18k rose gold at 40.5 mm, maintaining the Nautilus's characteristic porthole-inspired bezel and integrated bracelet.
  • Calibre CH 28-520 C FUS provides a column-wheel flyback chronograph mechanism alongside an instantaneous-jumping local-time display for a second time zone.
  • The brown gradient dial features the horizontal embossed motif inherited from the original 1976 Nautilus, here rendered in warm earth tones that complement the rose gold case.
  • Dual-time functionality is operated via a dedicated pusher, allowing the local hour hand to be advanced in one-hour increments without disrupting the running movement.
  • The reference sits within Patek Philippe's current production lineup, reflecting the Nautilus line's evolution from a design icon into a vehicle for sophisticated in-house complications.

Specifications

Brand
Patek Philippe
Collection
Nautilus
Reference
5990/1R-001
Years of production
2021 – present
Case
40.5mm 18k Rose gold
Case material
Rose gold
Case diameter
40.5 mm
Movement
Cal. CH 28-520 C FUS
Crystal
Sapphire
Dial
Brown gradient, horizontal embossed, dual time
Bezel
Polished rose gold, octagonal-rounded
Bracelet / strap
Integrated rose gold bracelet
Water resistance
120 m
Power reserve
55 h
Complications
Chronograph, gmt, Date
Type
Chronograph
Worn as
Men's
Also known as
ノーチラス, 鹦鹉螺

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